The Ultimate Buying Guide for the Rolex GMT-Master II
As one of the most well-known luxury watch brands, Rolex boasts an impressive portfolio of iconic watches. Among these, the Rolex GMT-Master line stands out for its impeccable craftsmanship, prestige, and functionality. Designed to display time zones from two locations simultaneously, the GMT-Master has been a favorite among pilots and jet-setters since its debut in the mid-1950s. It embodied the golden age of commercial air travel, allowing wearers to easily track both home and destination times.
The Rolex GMT-Master II series, launched in 1982, enhanced the original model with technical improvements. Over four decades later, it remains a coveted piece for collectors and world travelers. Its signature two-tone bezel and automatic mechanical movement make it both aesthetically striking and mechanically reliable. The GMT-Master II offers a blend of heritage and contemporary features, making it ideal for modern adventures.
This buying guide will delve into the rich history of the GMT-Master II, detailing its functions and features, exploring the array of styles available, and providing tips for selecting the perfect model. Whether you’re an enthusiast adding to your collection or seeking a durable companion for global travels, discover what makes the Rolex GMT-Master II an enduring and enticing choice.
A Rich History
When Rolex unveiled the original GMT-Master in 1955, it was designed at the request of Pan American Airways to provide pilots and crews with a replica watch capable of tracking multiple time zones. Its clean dial design, signature red and blue bezel, and automatic mechanical movement made it an instant success.
Nearly 30 years later, Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II, building on the success of its predecessor. This new model was larger, more durable, and more accurate. The first GMT-Master II references, launched in 1982, featured a 40mm stainless steel case, a mineral or acrylic crystal, and were water-resistant up to 100 meters. The reference 16760 was equipped with the Rolex Caliber 3085 movement, operating at 28,800 vph, ensuring enhanced performance and versatility for both aquatic and terrestrial use.
Over the next few decades, Rolex continued to improve the GMT-Master II. The crystals were upgraded to more scratch-resistant sapphire, and a larger 40mm “Maxi” case with broader lugs and a wider bezel was introduced. The aluminum bezel inserts were replaced with harder-wearing ceramic by the early 2000s, and the movement was advanced to the Rolex Caliber 3185, boosting the power reserve to 50 hours.
Iconic Features
One of the most distinguishing features of the GMT-Master II is its iconic two-tone rotatable bezel. The 24-hour scale ceramic bezel ring allows the wearer to track a second time zone. Popular color schemes include the red and blue “Pepsi” bezel, red and black “Coke” bezel, blue and black “Batman” bezel, and brown and black “Root Beer” bezel. These vibrant colors against the polished steel finish make GMT-Master II models instantly recognizable.
The watch is powered by clone Rolex’s caliber 3285 perpetual, self-winding mechanical movement, entirely developed and manufactured in-house. This complex movement beats at 28,800 vph and includes a date complication visible through the 3 o’clock cyclops lens. Models are accurate to +2/-2 seconds per day when cased.
In line with fake Rolex’s reputation for resilience, the current GMT-Master II is water-resistant to 100 meters (330 feet), suitable for surface water activities. The Oyster or Jubilee bracelets and Triplock winding crown ensure durability and comfort, protecting against accidental openings.
Style and Variations
The GMT-Master II offers a vast array of styling choices. While all models feature the signature GMT functionality, the combinations of metals, bezels, dials, and bracelets allow collectors to select a reference that best suits their preferences.
Case Materials
Stainless Steel: Versatile for daily wear and more affordable.
18k White Gold: Offers a more luxurious look and feel.
Two-Tone Steel and Yellow Gold: Blends the ruggedness of steel with the opulence of gold.
Solid 18k Yellow Gold: Carries a premium luxury status.
Bezels
The two-tone bezel is perhaps the most defining trait of the GMT-Master II. Popular options include:
Red and blue “Pepsi”
Red and black “Coke”
Blue and black “Batman”
Brown and black “Root Beer”
Dials
Dials range from matte black and glossy black to slate gray, champagne, white, blue, and various lacquered options. Hour markers can be classic round, rectangular, or triangular indexes.
Bracelets
Buyers can choose between the sporty Oyster bracelet or the more refined five-piece link Jubilee bracelet. Special editions are also offered on leather straps or rubber sport bands.
Choosing the Perfect GMT-Master II
With numerous variations spanning vintage and modern production runs, selecting your ideal GMT-Master II can seem daunting. Here are some key factors to consider:
Vintage vs. Modern
Vintage Models (1980s-1990s): Appeal to purists seeking collectability and rarity.
Modern Models: Offer cutting-edge improvements in convenience, functionality, and durability.
Case Metal
Stainless Steel: Most affordable.
Solid Gold: Premium luxury status.
Two-Tone: Mixes practicality with opulence.
Bezel and Dial Colors
Pepsi (blue and red): Sporty and vibrant.
Coke (red and black): Bold.
Batman (black and blue): Subtle sophistication.
Root Beer (brown and black): Upscale.
126713 (gray and black): Sleek and modern.
Bracelets
Jubilee: More refined, suitable for smaller wrists.
Oyster: Rugged, tool-watch appeal.
Budget and Availability
Consider availability, market values, and your budget. Some references may have long waitlists or high secondary market prices.
How Much Does a Rolex GMT-Master II Cost?
Stainless steel Rolex sports watches are in high demand and short supply, often selling for more than their retail prices on the pre-owned market. However, there are still reasonably priced options available.
GMT-Master II ref. 16710: $10k to $13k on the secondary market. Classic styling and proportions with either a Pepsi, Coke, or all-black bezel.
Discontinued ref. 116710: $10k to $15k.
Current ref. 126710: Retail price of $9,700, with secondary market prices averaging $15k to $18k.
Two-tone models: Starting around $12k pre-owned.
All-gold options: Up to $40k.
For over 40 years, the replica Rolex GMT-Master II has maintained its status as one of the most prestigious and capable Swiss luxury sports watches. Building upon the pilot’s watch foundation of the 1950s GMT-Master, the GMT-Master II became an instant classic in 1982.
Its striking two-tone bezel not only grabs attention but also serves the practical purpose of tracking a second time zone. Combined with Rolex’s proven automatic mechanical movement, the watch is both technically and aesthetically appealing.
While staying true to its tool watch DNA, the GMT-Master II now offers contemporary upgrades like ceramic bezels, sapphire crystals, robust bracelets, and advanced in-house movements. This blend of heritage and innovation is evident in every glance at this iconic watch.
Whether you seek a collectible vintage reference or a state-of-the-art modern iteration, the GMT-Master II impresses. Its range of metals, bezels, dials, and bracelets provides styles suitable for pilots, executives, or everyday wear. The GMT-Master II’s unmatched blend of form, function, and prestige delivers on Rolex’s promise of perfection.